Monday, November 26, 2012

So can I eat the rind on that one?



'Can I eat the rind on that one?' is the one of the questions that I'm asked the most frequently. Well, it's one of the questions that I'm asked the most frequently by our non-French clientele - our French customers have grown up around these sorts of cheeses and tend to know instinctively how this works.

As a general rule, the answer is yes – with a couple of exceptions. You are unlikely to come across cheeses where the rind looks edible but isn’t, and where this is the case, I think it’s pretty likely that you would be told about it. So actually, I think that a better question would be - 'will I enjoy eating the rind on that one?' - and the answer to that one (he says, shirking responsibility), is down to you personally.

My approach is relatively simple, I try some of the rind of every cheese that I eat, then I can be sure as to whether or not I want to eat any more of it.

So why would we want to eat the rind? The obvious reason is that as a customer, we have paid for it and therefore are reluctant to let it go to waste if there’s any enjoyment or nutritional value to be had from it.

The more important reason is that the rind is incredibly significant to a cheese, and to your experience of that cheese; it's where most of the action (or, err, magic) happens. This is the boundary between the cheese and the rest of the world, crucially, the boundary between the cheese and the atmosphere/environment of the ageing cave. The rind is where the flora and fauna work their best, due mainly to the presence of oxygen (which of course is largely absent in a solid block of curd). It’s the result of these chemical and biological processes that provides a significant source of the cheese’s more complex and interesting flavours.

Next time you eat some cheese, make a point of trying some of the cheese from just below the rind and comparing it to the cheese from the centre. The differences are usually quite noticeable.

Bi-caillou goat's milk cheese from Limousin

This photo of a bi-caillou (goat’s milk cheese from Limousin) is a good example of the ripening process, the part of the cheese just under the rind has turned creamy whilst the centre remains relatively untouched and not dissimilar from the freshly made cheese. This is because the action takes place at the rind. In fact, given time, and the right conditions, the whole cheese could go creamy, although this wouldn’t be a great result as it would be impossible to sell – imagine a tasty puddle on your cheese plate.

So how do you decide whether or not to eat the rind when there isn’t a cheesemonger there to help you? I’ve written down some simple guidelines based on cheese types, these should serve in almost all cases.

Goat cheeses, fresh or aged (such as the bi-caillou above) – the rind is integral and lovingly cared for - it should be eaten, even (or I would be tempted to say ‘especially’) if it has started to grow interesting blue moulds.

Langres is a cow's milk cheese from Champagne, it's orange rind
results from washing with Marc de Bourgogne or Marc de Champagne

Soft washed rind cheeses (such as the langres above) – someone has gone to a lot of effort to create that wonderful, sticky, smelly rind, washing it maybe twice or three times a week (usually with the locally produced alcohol) so you should really at least try it. If it isn’t to your taste though, cut it off and enjoy the rest of the cheese which should have been mildly flavoured by the activity on the rind.

Soft natural rind cheeses (think Brie and Camembert) – the soft white velvety moulds have covering these cheeses have been nurtured with your benefit in mind, they are there to be eaten and for the most part are very mild.

Uncooked, pressed cheeses (Cheddar and tomme de savoie) and blue cheeses (such as Stilton and Roquefort) – this is where it gets a bit more complicated. If the cheese is covered in a cheese cloth, don’t eat the cloth. If the rind is hard, dry and has the appearance of rock, try it by all means, but you probably aren’t going to love it (make sure that you eat all the good bits just below the rind though). If the rind is soft and pliable and has no obviously unnatural coating, give it a go and see if you like it.

Cooked, pressed cheeses (Comté and Beaufort) - These cheeses tend to be the ones that are aged for a long period of time (potentially several years). To prevent certain types of damage to the cheeses over time (such as undesirable moulds and cheese mite) these cheeses are often waxed (typically using a polymer based substance). If the rind has a shiny texture to it, I would avoid eating it myself. In fact, I would just generally not bother with the rind of these cheeses, they tend to be rather unpleasant texturally and often don't have great flavour. It should be said though that we do from time-to-time get customers who absolutely love the rind of a comté...

In the pictures below you can see Mimolette, a cheese where affineurs will actually encourage cheese mites (to give it that rusty cannon ball look), and a close-up of a Beaufort d’Alpage where you can see a thin wax layer, designed to keep the mites at bay. More on cheese mites in a later post…

Mimolette is a cow's milk cheese from the north of France.
Its cratered rind is evidence of cheese mite
I have enlarged a section of the rind of this Beaufort to demonstrate the
thin layer of wax that has been applied

A final note: One of the reasons I’ve seen cited for avoiding eating the rinds of cheeses that are not commonly eaten is hygiene - essentially, that the cheesemonger/affineur might treat cheeses differently if he knows that the client won't be eating the rind. When I first heard this I was rather dismissive as hygiene is a massively important consideration and not something that we would mess around with. Then I thought, hang on a minute, with the larger wheels of cheese such as comté and beaufort (which weigh in at around 40 kg each) they really do get wheeled around on the floor a bit particularly when it comes to cutting them open. Our floors are pretty clean, but still, I would understand why you might want to avoid the outside edges of one of these large wheels of cheese.

3 comments:

  1. Thank you for posting this - as I was just eating the last of my Stilton and wasn't sure if I should be eating the rind. I was thinking more along the lines of hygiene,as I wasn't sure if the producers expect customers to bin the rind. I ate it and its not done me any harm - so far. :-)

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  2. I eat Stilton, Danish blue, brie, camembert rinds all the time, never done any harm, tastes good if you enjoy especially Stilton muskier tasting rind, had no problems. Love most cheeses and would always try a bit of one's unfamiliar to me just to see if enjoyable.i don't eat waxy rind of edams, gouda etc (after removal of red or yellow wax protection) I had a healthy early start to cheeses as my mother was Italian and knew which were good, (and later wines incorporated to the eating experience) which was most, I'm happy to say!!

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  3. Thank you : I was having goat's cheese. The rind was very soft and most difficult to separate; on my second slice, I ate the rind.

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